Snohomish, WA

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Quick Facts for the City of Snohomish

Population:  8,640  (2000 census information)

Area:  3.25 sq. miles, UGA 4.7 sq. miles – Snohomish City Limits are generally described as the lands bounded on the north by 52nd Street, on the east by the Pilchuck River, on the south by the Snohomish River, and on the west by State Route 9 (SR-9) and Bickford Avenue.

Topography:  Snohomish is located North and West of the Snohomish and Pilchuck Rivers, with topography ranging from 0 to 300 feet above Puget Sound.

 City Infrastructure:

• 46 miles of roads and right-of-ways
• 43 miles of sewer and storm pipes
• 14 lift stations
• 51 miles of water pipe
• 2 reservoirs and 1 water tower
• 1 dam and fish ladder

A Little City of Snohomish History
As the oldest city in Snohomish County,
the City of Snohomish has a rich history and feel that is hard to beat.

The Historical Development of Snohomish

Indian Settlements

The arrival of Indian groups in the Pacific Northwest cannot be dated with great precision. However, archaeological investigations at the Manis mastodon site near Sequim on the Olympic Peninsula indicate man was in the area as early as 12,000 years ago.

There are more than 5,000 Indian sites on record in the state, of which only a few have been professionally evaluated. Generally, sites are located at river conjunctions within valleys and along the shoreline of Puget Sound. Known sites have been grouped into three rather broad time periods:

• Early sites approximately 12,000-8,000 years old,
• Middle-period sites between 8,000-3,000 years old, and
• Late-period sites about 3,000 years old.

A large number of different Indian tribes and bands inhabited the Pacific Northwest region with varied life-styles and different languages, dress, ceremonies, and adornments. Tribal characteristics are generally distinguished between the coastal tribes of western Washington and those of the interior. In general, the coastal tribes depended on the rivers and tidal waters for staple foods whereas the interior tribes relied more heavily upon plants and berries, as well as game and other animals.

The Snohomish and Snoqualmie River valleys were the traditional and current homeland for a number of Indian tribes of the Coast Salish groups including the Tulalips, Pilchucks, Snohomish, and Snoqualmie (Snuqualmi) Indian Tribes. Archaeologists and historians have verified tribal village sites throughout the Puget Lowlands including some reported sites that date 2,000 to 8,000 years before the Christian era.

In historic times, large permanent winter villages flourished along the Snohomish, Pilchuck, and Snoqualmie Rivers. The early tribes had no form of agriculture and no domesticated animals, except the dog. The tribes lived by hunting, fishing, and gathering. The people who lived in the Puget Lowlands depended largely on seafood – salmon and
shellfish, supplemented by berries and roots. The tribes built substantial wooden houses, often big enough to house a number of families, clustered into small villages.

The Indian population before the Europeans first came into the Pacific Northwest is estimated to have numbered 75,000 or possibly twice that number, divided into about 125 tribal groups. Early records indicate there may have been up to 1,000 Tulalip, Snohomish, Pilchuck, and Snoqualmie Indians within the local area in the early 1800s. Tribal numbers were subsequently reduced by small pox and tuberculosis epidemics to about 600 to 700 by 1858.

Today, many descendants of the Snohomish and Pilchuck Tribes live on the Tulalip Indian Reservation on Tulalip Bay north of Everett. The Tribes maintain tribal identity and individual members are also active members of the larger community.

Early Snohomish River Valley Development

The earliest white settlers arrived in the Snohomish River valley in 1858 from Seattle. The early settlers were drawn to the area because the flat land and deep soils of the valley were suitable for agriculture pursuits. The lumber industry arrived in the valley in the 1880s following the development of the railroads. 

During the 1880s and 1890′s, a number of embryonic railroad lines were established across Washington State including the Seattle, Lakeshore & Eastern (SL&E). The SL&E constructed and operated the first railroad line from Tacoma through Seattle around Lake
Washington and through the Bothell-Snohomish area to the Skagit River and Mount Vernon. The line was eventually absorbed into the Burlington Northern Railroad system until the line was abandoned by the railroad and converted into the Burke Gilman/Sammamish River Trail. 

Numerous mills were built during this time, although fires and the economic panic of 1893 abandoned many original sites. Logging resumed on a large scale in 1902 reaching a peak in 1908. Early town sites were platted during this time coinciding with the continued development of the railroads. 

Farming and timber production dominated land use activities from about 1900 to mid-century. The towns that survived the earlier hard times, like Snohomish, developed into service and cultural centers for agriculture and logging populations. As logging activities subsided, dairy and truck farming businesses claimed the valley floors and sustained the early towns’ economic base.

Snohomish Development

Cadyville – named after E. T. Cady, one of the original homesteaders, began in 1859 as a scheme to capitalize on a military road which, however, never materialized. E. C. Ferguson and several other men planned to build a town and operate a ferry where the proposed road would cross the Snohomish River. Congress abandoned plans for the road, but Ferguson continued with the town scheme, changing the name from Cadyville to Snohomish.

In 1861 – Snohomish was established as the county seat. The city flourished as a port along the steamboat line over the following 30-year period. Hotels, stores, churches and at one time as many as 42 saloons were constructed in the town. The Athenaeum Society provided a forum for the cultivation of culture and the examination of life; and a newspaper, the Northern Star, was founded in 1876. 

In 1884, the local sawmill was producing 20,000 board feet of lumber per day. The Seattle, Lakeshore, and Eastern Railroad (SL&E) started rail service in 1888 between Snohomish and Seattle. In 1890, the City of Snohomish was incorporated. 

In 1895 – the city lost the county seat to Everett – the result of a controversial and contested countywide vote. Snohomish’ s early glory faded as a result of losing the county seat contest.

Major catastrophes – befell the town in years following. Major fires in 1893 and 1911 disrupted business – 35 were destroyed in the 1911 fire alone. The region flooded during the winter of 1921 illustrating the problem created by developing the city in the low-lying floodplains. However, business continued to develop and the population increased, with logging-related industries including a sawmill and a lumber-finishing plant, being major employers.

Industrial development – occurred in town including agricultural processing plants, creameries, a milk condenser, canneries, and meatpacking. The Milwaukee Road Railroad, Great Northern, and Northern Pacific all developed rail service through Snohomish to
Everett, Seattle, and other regional centers. An interurban railway was also built between Snohomish and Everett. By 1920, the population grew to a little over 3,000 – a number that would remain relatively stable for the next 40 years.

The Depression – the “great depression” into which the country had fallen in the 1930s was not acutely felt in Snohomish, partly because the local economy was largely agricultural and family-farm based. Snohomish General Hospital was closed in the 1940s. Snohomish Airfield (Harvey Field) was started in 1945 with a government- sponsored flight program. 

Area flood control measures were funded in the 1950s and the city’s Centennial was celebrated in 1959. During the 1960s, an addition was constructed on to the Carnegie Library and the Everett Boeing plant was built at Paine Field providing jobs for local populations and an increased demand for local housing. 

In 1974 – the Seattle-Snohomish Mill was totally destroyed by fire. A sawmill had operated on the property since 1900. Bob Waltz chose to rebuild the mill and help maintain the economy of Snohomish.

In 1975 – the worst flood in Snohomish history occurred. Over 300 homes were damaged and 3,500 head of cattle and other livestock died – despite rescue efforts. 

In the 1980s – Snohomish became a bedroom community for Everett and King County area workers. Although the city continued to maintain an agricultural base, the Snohomish School District became the major employer as enrollment in the public school system swelled as a result of surrounding area residential growth. The majority of the population
shifted outside city limits, with farmlands under development into small acreage homesteads and rural plats. Major land value areas shifted from within the city to the outlying areas. The population climbed dramatically, topping 6,000 in incorporated areas. City government had to deal with major infrastructure improvements.

In the 1990s – the city continued significant growth and planned for additional expansion. Vacant lots within the city have almost completely built-out, increasingly for multifamily housing projects. Infrastructure upgrades, particularly sewer, storm, and transportation
are required to support the growing population – estimated at 7,850 in 1997. Overcrowding in the schools has become a serious problem. Twice in 1997, school building bond measures failed in the elections. A 2-year maintenance and operation levy failed in March 1998, but after revision, barely passed in an April 1998 election.

Historic Business District

In 1973, the city adopted a Historic District Ordinance protecting historic buildings and structures from inappropriate alterations and demolitions – and encouraging the design of  new constructions in keeping with the historic character of the district. In 1974, the Historic Business District, a 36-block area, was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The Historic Business District is located on a gentle south-facing slope overlooking the Snohomish River. Ferguson Park, Hill Park, and the public library preserve stands of large trees that define the horizon of many local views. Mature street trees, alleys and sidewalks are defining features of the district, in addition to the buildings. Pedestrian
activity is an important feature of the district.

The Historic Business District is laid out on a modified north-south oriented grid system. Standard right-of-ways are 80-feet with a 40-foot wide paved street. Historic residential areas are located generally to the north of the district with mixed use in the Maple/Pine Avenue area and to the east of the district. The area includes multifamily, single-family, retail and light industrial uses, and a number of older structures.

Commercial Architecture – the 1880-1930 period is the defining era of the commercial buildings in the Historic Business District. District commercial buildings range from 1 to 3 stories with brick, wood siding and stucco exteriors. Most buildings provide first floor
storefronts and retail with upper floor retail, restaurant, lodging, office and residential uses. 

Buildings are located at the front property line with front door on-street parking and service access from rear alleys. Windows are vertical and repeated across the facade on both bottom and upper stories. First floors typically have large storefront windows with glass store doors and taller ceilings than upper floors. Awnings and recessed entries are common features. Skylights were used to some extent in commercial buildings. Building ornamentation commonly includes cornice and window detailing. The most prominent buildings in the Historic Business District have well-defined cornices. Hipped tile roofs and flat ‘western’ front facades are typical. Flowerpots and corner street trees are commonly provided on First Street, and lawn planter strips on north-south streets. 

Buildings on the south side of First Street are 1-2 story, night-oriented activities like taverns and movie theaters. Buildings on the north side of First Street are 2-3 story with day-oriented uses like retail shops, bakery, and ice cream with some upper floor residential flats. The lower height of buildings on the south side of the street provides winter solar access improving the microclimate and supporting year-round economic viability of the outdoor shopping street. 

Residential Architecture – homes in the Historic Business District date from the 1860s to the present, with an emphasis on the years prior to 1920. Residential buildings display a range of turn-of-the-century styles including Craftsman Bungalow, Queen Anne Victorian, Shingle, Beaux Arts, Gothic Revival, Italianate, Cottage, Colonial Revival and
Stick/Eastlake. 

Wood is the predominant material, but brick, stone and stucco are also common. 

Historic home roofs were either cedar shingle or composition. Cedar shakes were not typically used. Roof pitches were steep, often 10:12 or 12:12, with substantial eaves. The steep pitch provided an otherwise 1-story home with a usable upstairs for bedrooms. Porches were common. Windows were vertical and often grouped in twos and threes. Windows, doors, and building corners were finished with wide wood trim sometimes with wider trim and/or cornices at the top. Skylights were not used. Houses were set back from the street a uniform distance, with garages or sheds located behind the main structure with access from an alley. Yards were large in relation to the building’s footprint with lawns and substantial space between structures. Houses varied in size throughout the district, but generally were approximately the same size within a neighborhood. Picket fences were widely used.

Other Buildings – the visual character of the city is also influenced by other buildings including churches, the old Armory at Second Street and Union Avenue, Carnegie Library, government buildings (including the former Post Office), and public schools. Also visually significant are the garages, woodsheds, utility buildings, and shacks that occur with
houses on building lots (120 Avenue C, for example), and generally located along alleyways.

The Snohomish Historical Society – was established to acquire, preserve, and perpetuate the artifacts and history of the greater Snohomish area as well as to educate and distribute historical information to those interested in the area’s history. The Society currently owns and operates the following facilities:

• Blackmans Museum – is one of the original homes in Snohomish and is on the National Registrar of Historic property. The building is furnished as a turn of the century residence and is open to the public.
• Waltz Building – The building has a large community meeting room and kitchen that are available for public use.

Click here for an interactive map of the historic Snohomish District.

Snohomish History and Earl Averill

Averill Youth Complex is named after Earl Averill, the “Earl of Snohomish”. Earl was the Cleveland Indians’ centerfielder who compiled a lifetime batting average of .318, 238 homeruns and 1164 runs batted in over 13 seasons (1929-1941). hit a homerun in his first major league at bat, the first American Leaguer to ever turn that trick. The Earl of Snohomish was inducted into the Hall of Fame in 1975. He was 81 years old when he died in 1983, and is buried here in Snohomish.